Less is More? - Ricotta Ras Malai

It is the simple things, a recurring theme over the last year. When G and I first met, I loved fussy food. I mean food that required 20 different ingredients (perhaps a little bit of an exaggeration), two or three different grocery stores, and quite a bit of prep and cook time. It has taken years, but G has slowly convinced me that less is more. When we met, I would always joke, no, more is more.

Whenever I wanted to try a new recipe, my Mom would joke that she was left with several ingredients in her pantry or fridge that she would never use again. She had half-open bags of obscure dried mushrooms, Szechuan peppercorns, and fancy salts. These were all ingredients she would never use in her day to day cooking. While we were on a family vacation, I dragged my family to a fancy five-star restaurant in Ferran Adria's style. It was an elaborate several course meal complete with tiny portions and dry ice, creating a visual trick of chilled sauces "boiling." When we returned to the hotel, my brother was so hungry, he promptly opened the mini-fridge and ate several cans of Pringles chips.

The year G and I met, I vividly remember celebrating his birthday. I decided to make a fancy dinner. It was sea bass cooked en papillote, with a coconut sauce served over a bed of french beans. It was this lovely recipe I had found in Gourmet magazine and looked beautiful. I steamed the french beans until they were just slightly crunchy. The fish was seasoned, then wrapped gently in parchment paper, or en papillote, and baked. The coconut sauce required several ingredients and then simmered on the stove until thick and creamy. After all these steps, the dish had to be assembled and served immediately. The dish was beautiful, but I was exhausted and grumpy. I was so proud of my dinner, only to find G horrified that I had spent hours in the kitchen and created a dish that though fancy and beautiful, would just have been as enjoyable if it were a simply prepared piece of fish with no accouterments.

This week in keeping with simple, I made ricotta ras malai. It is a delicious easy dessert. Ras malai is a classic Indian dessert. Malai means cream, and ras meaning juice. Gently boil milk, then add lemon juice to curdle it. Then the milk solids, or chena, are gently made into paneer or small cheese balls. Place the paneer in sweetened milk flavored with cardamom and saffron. It is rich and delicious and takes a little time (or more than a little.)

Ricotta ras malai is a quick and easy ras malai. Substitute ricotta cheese for the paneer. Then bake the cheese with a little sugar and semolina. You then soak them in half and half that is flavored with cardamom and saffron. The dessert may not be true ras malai, but it is delicious. I love it because you can easily make it for a crowd, and it comes together quickly. There are just a few active steps, and the majority of time, the dish is baking.

Over the years, I have simplified. I have come to enjoy simple, clean flavors. And especially now, with Poet and Flower underfoot, getting dinner done in a minimum of time is key. These days I will leave an elaborate meal to a fancy restaurant.

Ricotta Ras Malai

This Indian dessert is simple and delicious. Made of ricotta and half and half, it's deceptively easy. The final result is a rich and satisfying dessert.

Serves 8

• 1 teaspoon oil
• 3 cardamon
• 3 cloves
• 1 inch cinnamon
• pinch saffron
• 15 ounces ricotta cheese
• 2 cups half and half
• 1/2 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon semolina

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees

2. Heat oil in medium saucepan, add cardamom, clove and cinnamon. Saute for 30 seconds.

3. Add half and half, sugar and saffron. Stir a few times. Just bring to boil. Strain the milk through a small sieve and cool.

4. In a large bowl, beat ricotta with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and semolina. Beat for about a minute or two until blended and airy.

5. Spoon mixture into well buttered 9“x9” baking dish for 30-35  minutes until firm and just set.
6. Cut into 2 -3 inch squares and gently place in the milk mixture. Chill.

You can also use a mini-muffin tin to make little round desserts. I buttered the muffin tin generously and the baked the ricotta for 20-25 minutes.