The Meaning of the Holiday - Hyderabadi Shami Kebab

Thanksgiving has been an evolution for me. It has always been my favorite holiday, a time for my mother and me to cook together. For years, the goal was to have a beautiful Thanksgiving table with the classic roast turkey and all the sides. I will always miss cooking with my mom, but I know I am making new traditions with Poet and Flower.

My mom and I have always made turkey every year that I can remember. My mom's first turkey was a giant frozen turkey that she tried to thaw a few hours before dinner. She realized, too late, that it would not bake its massive frozen form. So she took a hairdryer to it and also tried to thaw it in the bathtub to no avail. Then we moved on to another technique. For years we always brined our turkey, submerging it in a saltwater solution with whole spices and herbs.

G is not a fan of turkey. Why else, he argues, do we try all sorts of things to make it taste delicious? We all have our favorite accompaniments to turkey, so many delicious choices that are really the heart of dinner. For one of our first Thanksgiving together, he convinced me to make a standing rib roast. My mother, always a staunch stalwart regarding tradition, was horrified. The rib roast came out perfect, herb-crusted on the outside and a lovely shade of pink in the very center. I knew deep down she missed the giant turkey. My dad, who loves his steak several shades past well done, would have none of it. He was puzzled at the abandonment of a long tradition. G and I enjoyed the delicious rib roast, but ThanksgivingThanksgiving was not the same.

But, the turkey is not the point. I have slowly realized over the years that it is about being together and grateful for all that we have. I have spent so much time working on the idea of ThanksgivingThanksgiving, the perfect table, the perfect table. All the while, I was missing the true meaning of the holiday. As I look back on all the thanksgivings with my mom, it's not the turkey or table that I remember but the time in the kitchen with her. Time spent together.

I made Hyderabadi shami kebabs this week. Turkey doesn't have to be big, brined, or roasted. My mother loved to make these after Thanksgiving. They are a delicious kebab that can be made with chicken as well as lamb. Grind the turkey with onions, garlic, cilantro, and garam masala. Add chickpea flour to help them hold together when you are frying them. Then form them into round patties and pan-fry them. They are soft, spicy, and perfect.

We have a new tradition each year. We sit at the table and start the meal by saying what we are thankful for. It's a tradition that G and his family have had for years. But it gives me pause and helps Poet and Flower learn early on what it has taken me so long to realize. We can eat anything, turkey, chicken, or a very rare rib roast and celebrate the holiday - together.

Hyderabadi Shami Kebab

These kebabs are a Hyderabadi specialty. With onions, cilantro, garam masala and chickpea flour to make them spicy, soft, and tender.

Serves 4

• 1 pound ground lamb (chicken or turkey)
• 6 cloves garlic
• 1 medium onion (coarsely chopped)
• 6 large dried red chilis (broken into 1" pieces)
• 3/4 cup fresh cilantro
• 1 tablespoon coconut powder
• 1 teaspoon garam masala
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 8 tablespoons besan (or chickpea flour)
• 1/4 cup water
• neutral oil to fry

1. In a medium saucepan, add all ingredients except chickpea flour. Cook on medium heat until the chicken/lamb/turkey is just cooked, about 15 minutes.

2. Strain the mixture into a food processor and grind for 30-45 seconds it is smooth. Don’t add any water otherwise the shamis won't come together and will fall apart when you are frying them. Cool completely.

3. In a large bowl, add the cooked meat and stir in the chickpea flour. Stir until it comes together. Divide into small balls, about 2 tablespoons each. Using oil on your left palm, and then with your right hand fingers roll into 3“ round patty and flatten into a 1/2” thick shami.

4. Cool in the refrigerator for 30 minutes

5. Heat oil over medium heat. You should have about a 1/4 inch deep layer, so the shamis are pan fried.

6. Fry for 3-4 minutes a side until golden brown.

7. Drain on a tray lined with paper towels.

8. Serve with ketchup or mint chutney.