What is Authentic? - Aloo Katli

Authentic is a tall order. In food, is anything truly authentic? As recipes are passed down during the generations, they slowly change. They are adapted to new tastes and ingredients. The food may change but it retains its essence. Each family and each region, has their own take on a recipe. My Hyderabadi biryani recipe is maybe just a little different from the next. But each one is authentic and loved in the same ways.

My mother was meticulous with her biriyani recipe. It had been passed down to her from her mother. Each step was to be duplicated in the same way, producing the same result each time. Her recipe was simple. Lamb slowly simmered in spices, or a khurma, then layered with rice and slowly steamed, creating the classic dum or steam to make the dish. My father grew up with something different. His family's biriyani likely was likely an amalgamation of family recipes. To my mother's horror, it had potatoes. He would insist that she should alter her recipe and add potatoes. They would get into a lively discussion each time we had biriyani. She would win, adamantly saying that potatoes had no place in biriyani. I still can't enjoy biriyani without thinking about the missing potatoes.

A number of years ago, we had an amazing dinner at a small restaurant in the heart of old Istanbul. The restaurant had tracked down historical records of foods cooked in the Ottoman royal kitchens of the past. Through old documents and letters, they attempted to recreate the unique dishes made at the time. We enjoyed raisins and nuts with lamb and fragrant rice dishes. I was particularly struck by a lamb dish that had similar flavors to my mother's lamb khurma. My mother's Muslim cuisine had been passed down to her through her mother and generations who had emigrated from the Middle East. It was amazing to experience flavors and food that echoed that of my childhood. Food through the generations that evolves and changes and but is still the same.

I made aloo katli this week. It's a wonderful side dish to dinner, potatoes flavored with onions, cilantro, garlic, and ginger. Growing up, we would call it green potatoes, and it was a favorite. It's incredibly versatile, and you can also enjoy it all on its own with roti—a perfect light lunch.

Next time we go out for Indian, I am sure G and I will debate the authenticity of the food. Or perhaps we will take a moment and enjoy it for what it is. Wthat makes it beautiful is how it will surely change.

Aloo Katli (Green Potatoes)

Savory and spicy potatoes slowly simmered with onions, cilantro, garlic and ginger.

Serves 6

• 3 medium potatoes (cut into 1 inch pieces)
• 2 stems curry leaves
• 1 medium onion (chopped)
• 4 tablespoons neutral oil
• 1 teaspoon salt

Masala

• 1 teaspoon dry coconut powder
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 cup cilantro (chopped)
• 3 green chilis (chopped)
• 3 cloves garlic

1. In a wet/dry grinder or blender, grind the coconut powder, pepper, cilantro, chilis and garlic into a paste.
2. In a medium saute pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add the curry leaves and fry for 10 seconds until fragrant and slightly crispy.
3. Add the onions and saute until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes
4. Add the masala paste and saute for 2-3 minutes.
5. Add the potatoe and salt. Give it a few quick stirs. Lower the heat to medium low and simmer, covered, until the potatoes are cooked through about 10-12 minutes. Stir as necessary to make sure potatoes don’t stick.
6. Serve with rice or roti.